Here’s the thing about grilling whole fish: It’s really not as hard as you think. The main problem, as is well known to anyone who’s tried it, is that the fish may stick to the grill grid. And what’s the point of cooking a whole fish if it ends up ripped into pieces? But if you follow a few simple rules, your chances of getting the fish from grill to platter in one piece are very good. And it’s worth the effort, for two reasons in addition to the wonderful flavor: When you’re at the market, it’s much easier to tell if a whole fish is fresh than a steak or fillet; and you’ll be rewarded with lots of oohs and ahhs when you triumphantly bear the whole fish to the table. Here are the rules:
1. Don’t be too ambitious. Look for fish that weigh between 1 1/2 and 2 pounds—any larger than that, and flipping starts to become difficult.
2. Make sure your grill grid is super-clean and very hot before you put the fish on. Flesh tends to stick to cool metal and residue.
3. Oil the fish very lightly before you put it on the grill.
4. Don’t be a worrier. After you lay the fish on the grill, let it sit there for 4 to 5 minutes without fooling with it. This lets a good sear develop between the fish and the grill.
5. After 4 or 5 minutes, use your tongs to sort of work the fish free of the grill, vibrating it very slightly back and forth until it releases.
6. Cook for another 2 to 3 minutes, then flip. Well, actually, don’t flip it like a pancake; roll it over gently, as you would a sleeping bed partner.
7. Don’t turn the fish again. Just continue cooking until it’s done (it should be almost completely opaque throughout, with just a hint of translucence), then remove from the grill with your tongs and a large spatula. Ta-da.
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