It Ain’t Easy Being Cheesy

05.13.08
Sometimes, things are bad in ways you can never expect.
fake cheese

You know how sometimes people in questionable restaurants will order something commonplace and say, “Well, how bad can you screw that up?” I learned the answer to that rhetorical question when I was in cooking school. The answer is: really bad. You can always screw something up really, really bad.

I was reminded of this the other week, while I was thinking about an unfortunate plate of cheese ramyun in a now-defunct restaurant. I recognized that cheese. I knew that cheese.

I was making hamburgers for friends one night, waltzing down to the grocery store for some Kraft Singles, only to find myself shocked at how expensive they were. I mean, I love American cheese, but at $6 a pound? I couldn’t deal with the idea that it costs as much as real cheese. I am not a great maker of hamburgers, and if I’m going to drop six bucks on the cheese, I’d rather just take my friends over to Donovan’s and buy them a great burger.

I was considering my options when I noticed, a few inches behind the Kraft Singles, a pack of Tropical brand cheese, covered with jaunty lettering and a clip-art palm tree. Tropical brand cheese was cheap. It was butt cheap.

And so I thought, “How bad can shrink-wrapped American cheese be?” Plus I’m the kind of guy that likes to get behind the underdog. And I do have a theory that really fake food tastes better than mostly fake food: Witness the superiority of mac-n-instant-powdered-cheese (heavenly) over mac-n-Velveeta (In Hell, lost souls get drowned in Velveeta).

Back home, burgers seared up and well on their way to a nice medium rare, I unwrapped a couple slices, laid them on carefully, and put the pan in the oven. I toasted some buns, applied liberal quantities of mayonnaise. I took my burgers out and was about to bun them, but noticed the cheese wasn’t quite melted yet. I popped them back in and started wiping down my counter. A minute later, I was sticking my hand in the oven to make sure it was on. Then I was poking at my burgers to check on their doneness. Medium rare was a thing of the past.

I waited. I could live with a medium burger, but soon I was engaged in a battle of attrition. Who was going to break first, me or the Tropical brand cheese? Medium well. Well done. Hockey puck done. I finally gave up, pulling the things out just short of charcoal-lump doneness, the poor burgers all shrunken into tight little balls. And there, like a canopy over a gazebo, were the slices of Tropical brand cheese, their sharp edges still sticking out at perfect right angles. I think I detected a few beads of sweat on the surface, but no more. I had to admire its integrity, so much so that I couldn’t bring myself to eat it. I chipped off the slices and prepared to explain to my friends that I had played chicken with their dinner and lost. I know that cheese.

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