Light My Fire

Now comes the exception to the maxim that steaks and chops are best cut thick for grilling. We also admire superthin pork chops. Use a hot fire, get them on and off the grill in about three minutes per side or slightly less, and they will acquire a beautiful sear. With their fat and that smokiness, they end up reminiscent of bacon.

Lamb chops are similar. We love almost any type of lamb chops on the grill, particularly those hyperexpensive tender little rib chops (we call them lamb lollipops). But for deeper, richer lamb flavor at a fraction of the price, we turn to shoulder chops. They can be a bit chewy and a little fatty, but grilling is the absolute best way to cook them, since it crisps the fat and intensifies the flavor. Like thin pork chops, these are best cooked directly over a hot fire for a short time, about four minutes per side.

3. Chicken

When it comes to poultry, we like bones. Boneless breasts may be quick and convenient, but the bone-in variety has more flavor. It does, however, present a problem: The thickness and density make it hard to cook all the way through without burning on the outside. To achieve a crisp, nicely seared skin while keeping the flesh tender, evenly cooked, and juicy throughout, the best approach is to put the chicken breasts directly over the flames of a medium fire for about four minutes on each side, then move them to the cooler part of the fire, cover them with that disposable aluminum pie plate (or a baking pan if you’re cooking a large number), and continue to cook for about 18 to 20 minutes more.

Bone-in thighs and drumsticks are even better. As with those pork rib chops, their fat content makes them more flavorful and also less likely to dry out over the heat of the flames. Cook them the same way as breasts, but for slightly less time: about two minutes per side over the hot part of the fire, then about 10 to 12 minutes per side over the cooler part for thighs, and 12 to 14 minutes per side for drumsticks.

For sheer snack value, we have to include chicken wings. As befits their casual nature, they are incredibly easy: Simply grill them directly over a medium-hot fire for about 10 to 12 minutes, turning every once in a while.

Choose any of these classic grill dishes, and you will be rewarded with a deeply satisfying dinner.

On the other hand, a nice grilled avocado on the side wouldn’t hurt.