Contents
January 2009
Volume LXIX Number 1
Magazine / Features
58 A Family Affair
When we say this comforting meal—including mozzarella in carrozza; Sunday ragù; fresh egg fettuccine; minted green salad; oranges in red wine; sweet ricotta pastries; and almond, chocolate, and pistachio spumoni—revolves around family, we really mean it. One of our food editors learned these classic dishes from her Italian grandmother.
72 A Tuscan Son
They’re basic, fresh, and authentic. But, most importantly, Tony Oltranti’s northern Italian dishes—chicken-liver crostini; roast chicken with pancetta and olives; polenta with Franklin’s Teleme cheese; fennel, frisée, and escarole salad; panettone bread pudding; and more—are simply amazing.
82 Red Gravy and Roux
When the food of New Orleans’ Sicilian immigrants merged with the city’s French-Creole cuisine, it became what residents refer to as Creole-Italian. And like everything else in this town, it’s a singular sensation.
90 Your Own Little Italy
If you crave pizza Margherita, lasagne bolognese with spinach, minestrone soup, veal cacciatore, fresh ricotta cheesecake, and tiramisu (frankly, we haven’t met anyone who doesn’t), isn’t it about time you had recipes for creating these Italian favorites at home?
96 Cooking Class
A step-by-step guide to homemade mozzarella. Once you try it, it’s quite possible you’ll never go back to store-bought.
32 My Inner Italy
Many childhood memories are buried deep in our consciousness. Especially those involving spaghetti with bolognese sauce, a chunk of parmesan cheese, and garlic bread.
Recipes begin on page 33.
Recipes begin on page 33.
Magazine / Gourmet Everyday
45 Quick Kitchen
Polenta-crusted chicken; lemon pepper acini di pepe; sautéed beef with white wine and rosemary; plus five more recipes that can be prepared in 35 minutes active time or less.
We turn things upside down with this inside-out eggplant parmigiana.
51 One or Two for Dinner
Turkey Marsala with sautéed spinach for two; and pea and bacon risotto just for you.
52 Ten-Minute Mains
Solutions for hectic weeknights.
Magazine / Kitchen Notebook
100 Taking it layer by layer, we reveal the secrets to perfect lasagne ... how can you master meatballs? It’s all in the mix ... why you should be canny when buying canned tomatoes ... the wonderful world of cheese.
Magazine / The Last Touch
108 White lightning strikes again as mozzarella enlivens everything from pizza to salad.











