Ciuppin (Seafood Stew): 2000s Recipes + Menus : gourmet.com

2000s Recipes + Menus

Seafood Stew

Serves6

Active time:45 min
Start to finish:1 1/2 hr

ADAPTED FROM ENCHANTED LIGURIA BY DAVID DOWNIE

December 2004

Although many San Franciscans think the zesty fish stew known as cioppino was invented in their city, it can actually be traced back to Genoa—ciuppin is the Genoese term for “nice little bowl of soup.” Almost any white-fleshed saltwater fish will do, as long as it’s very fresh.

8 cups cold water
3 lb mixed small whole (1/4- to 3/4-lb) white-fleshed fish (such as black bass, branzino, daurade, red snapper, and rouget), cleaned and filleted with skin, reserving heads and bones for stock
2 thin carrots, thinly sliced
1 celery rib, thinly sliced
1 medium onion, halved and thinly sliced, plus 1 large onion, chopped
1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 baguette
2 lb baby squid, cleaned
2 teaspoons salt
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 flat anchovy fillets, minced
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 teaspoon crumbled dried small hot red chile such as peperoncini or dried hot red pepper flakes
1 1/2 tablespoons tomato paste
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 cup dry white wine

Make stock:

Bring water to a simmer with reserved fish heads and bones, carrots, celery, sliced onion, and peppercorns in a wide heavy 6- to 8-quart pot, then simmer, uncovered, skimming foam as necessary, 30 minutes. Pour stock through a large sieve into a large bowl, pressing on and then discarding solids. (You will have about 6 cups stock.)

Make toasts:

Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 325°F.
Cut baguette into 1/2-inch-thick slices, then arrange in 1 layer in an ungreased shallow baking pan. Bake until toasts are crisp and dry, 15 to 20 minutes.

Make stew:

Chop enough squid to measure 1/4 cup, then toss remaining whole squid with 3/4 teaspoon salt and set aside. Remove any pin bones from fish fillets with tweezers or needlenose pliers, then cut fillets diagonally into serving pieces and sprinkle with 3/4 teaspoon salt.
Cook chopped onion in oil with remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt in cleaned pot over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 8 minutes. Add anchovy, garlic, hot chile, and tomato paste and cook, stirring, 2 minutes. Add chopped squid and 1/2 cup parsley and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add wine and boil, stirring occasionally, until reduced by half, 2 to 3 minutes. Add 1 cup stock, then arrange whole squid in 1 layer in pot and then place fish fillets on top.
Add enough of remaining stock to just cover fish and cook over moderate heat, uncovered, until fillets are just cooked through, 2 to 5 minutes.
Serve stew over toasts in shallow soup plates and sprinkle with remaining 2 tablespoons parsley.

Photograph by Mark Molloy