2000s Recipes + Menus

Grilled Skirt Steaks with Tomatillos Two Ways

Serves 4 to 6
  • Active time:30 min
  • Start to finish:45 min
October 2008
Rich skirt steak begs for an assertive, acidic accompaniment. The tomatillo twofer showcases the fruit’s different personalities: In the cooked salsa, its flavor is round and lemony; in the salad, fresh lime juice sharpens the tomatillos’ raw brightness.

For tomatillo salsa

  • 4 pasillas de Oaxaca (dried smoked chiles), wiped clean
  • 1 lb fresh tomatillos, husked and rinsed, then quartered
  • 1 cup packed cilantro sprigs
  • 2 garlic cloves
  • 1 tablespoon packed dark brown sugar
  • 1 teaspoon molasses (not blackstrap)
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
  • 1/3 cup vegetable oil

For steaks and tomatillo salad

  • 1/4 cup vegetable oil, divided
  • 3/4 teaspoon ground cumin
  • 1 3/4 lb skirt steak, halved
  • 1/2 lb fresh tomatillos, husked and rinsed
  • 1 cup cilantro leaves
  • 2 teaspoons finely chopped shallot
  • 2 teaspoons fresh lime juice

Make salsa:

  • Slit chiles lengthwise, then stem and seed. Heat a dry heavy skillet (not nonstick) over medium heat until hot, then toast chiles, opened flat, turning and pressing with tongs, until more pliable and slightly changed in color, about 1 minute. Cover chiles with hot water in a bowl and soak until softened, about 20 minutes, then drain.
  • Purée chiles, tomatillos, cilantro, garlic, brown sugar, molasses, cumin, and 1 tsp salt in a blender until smooth, about 1 minute.
  • Heat oil in a 10-inch heavy skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers, then cook salsa (it will spatter), stirring occasionally, until slightly thicker, 5 to 8 minutes.

Grill steaks:

  • Prepare a grill for direct-heat cooking over hot charcoal (high heat for gas); see “Grilling Procedure.”
  • Whisk together 2 Tbsp oil, cumin, 1 1/2 tsp salt, and 1 tsp pepper, then coat steaks.
  • Oil grill rack, then grill steaks, covered only if using a gas grill, turning once, until grill marks appear, 4 to 6 minutes total for medium-rare. Let steaks rest on a cutting board, loosely covered with foil, 10 minutes.

Make salad while steaks rest:

  • Thinly slice tomatillos and toss with cilantro, shallot, lime juice, remaining 2 Tbsp oil, and salt and pepper to taste.
  • Cut steaks into serving pieces and top with salsa and salad.
Cooks’ notes:
  • Steaks can be cooked in a hot oiled 2-burner grill pan over medium-high heat, 4 to 10 minutes for medium-rare.
  • Salsa (not salad) can be made 1 day ahead and chilled. Rewarm before serving.
  • We’ve also got a web-exclusive recipe using the leftover brown sugar.

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