Most days when I skipped elementary school, I’d walk down the street and peer into Ye Waverly Inn, wishing that I could eat there. With its low ceilings, aged wooden floors, and many fireplaces, the old carriage house looked so cozy and inviting. Then I grew up and did go there … and was deeply disappointed. Every time I passed the place, I thought how great it would be if it actually tasted as good as it looked. So while I have misgivings about its excruciating new hipness, I have to say that it is finally everything that it should be. When Graydon Carter et al. took over, they had the good sense to devote the menu to the comforting American fare that used to be the Inn’s trademark—down to the burger and the chicken potpie. Only this time, they made it taste good. The food is local, it’s organic, and the froufrou factor has been banished. I liked the steamed artichoke, the steak with fries (although as far as I’m concerned, you can hold the truffle oil), and the pork chop with its roasted apple. I liked the iciness of the martinis. And who could resist those bananas Foster?
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