First Taste: Myers+Chang

myers and chang

Just come in, dude. It's open. Photo: courtesy Myers+Chang

Finally, in the far reaches of Boston's trendy South End, chef Joanne Chang (flour bakery + cafe) and front-of-the-house wizard Christopher Myers (Radius, Great Bay, Via Matta) provide what we all look for but for some inexplicable reason can almost never find: Great, moderately-priced Asian (well, mostly Chinese) food in a space that's fun and witty, rather than depressing. Given Chang's baking skills, it's no surprise that anything involving flour is particularly delicious here: shatteringly crisp egg rolls; scallion pancakes that are fluffy rather than greasy; supremely silky dan dan noodles. Other classic dishes are also rescued from their usual forlorn treatment; for the first time, for example, I understood why oyster omelets are actually a good idea. And, after all, who can resist a place where the mirrors are covered with ridiculous "proverbs," the crowd buzzes with excitement, and the staff urge you to eat the whole lobster with coconut curry and sticky rice with your hands? Myers+Chang 1145 Washington Street, Boston, MA 617-532-5300

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