No matter how you look at it, Adour is not what you expect. When you hear “design by David Rockwell,” you anticipate grand theatrical spectacle, not this quietly luxurious room with its widely spaced seats and heavy silver; this may be New York’s most comfortably grown-up restaurant. If you’re anticipating a replay of Alain Ducasse’s last New York venture, this restrained and faintly old-fashioned menu is a surprise too. Even the prices are a bit of a thrill: The restaurant, which occupies the space that was once L’Espinasse, is not cheap, but you rarely find this level of luxury for this amount of money; entrées start at $32.
The food is classic Ducasse, as if he’d turned a page and gone back to the simple food he was serving in Paris ten years ago. The menu is dotted with lobster, foie gras, and sweetbreads. Lobster Thermidor is simplicity itself, two perfect little tails in a stunningly rich sauce. Duck breast is a small, intense streak of meat with a delicious pool of polenta sitting by its side. Pork tournedos arrive with an irresistible nubbin of boudin noir. This is classic French food, and it is delicious.
The wine list is a classic too. If you’re the sort who likes to settle in and really read it, I’d suggest arriving before your guests so you have enough time. Yes, it’s that long.
Adour Alain Ducasse 2 E. 55 St., New York, NY (212-710-2277)
Comments
Post a Comment