Gjelina’s chef is Travis Letts, who brought some excitement to the dining room at the W Westwood when it first opened. Here, his cooking is less fussy, more direct and earthy. His pizzas from a woodburning oven are wonderful, topped with Fontina cheese, bitter greens, bacon, and tomato confit or Taleggio, mushrooms, and pea tendrils, to name two. He also uses that oven to roast baby artichokes, which he serves with gremolata, and sunchokes (delicious with salsa verde). Miniature beets with their tops arrive with dollops of fresh ricotta and walnut oil.
Letts keeps the menu fresh by introducing a handful of new dishes every week, which could be something like Monterey Bay squid with chimichurri or a Niman Ranch skirt steak with arugula and shaved Parmigiano. He also turns out a killer duck leg confit. Dessert encompasses a pine nut and honey tart, butterscotch pot de crème, and an oddball chocolate date pudding.
At the moment, Gjelina is one restaurant in L.A. where it’s essential to reserve ahead. That said, it’s easier to get a table after 9:30 p.m. It’s quieter, too, and on a balmy Venice night, that patio is where you want to be.
Gjelina 1429 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, CA (gjelina.com; 310-450-1429)
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