New York City: Minetta Tavern

Cross Balthazar with Waverly Inn and you’ve got an idea of how it feels at the new Minetta Tavern, which is just like the old one, except the food is better. The place has been buffed and shined to a cozy golden glow, and the menu—a compilation of hits from bistros around the world—is utterly likable. You can choose between roast chicken, côte de boeuf, a fine plate of American cheeses. There’s a pasta, a pile of roasted marrow bones, an awesome pig’s foot rolled into a gorgeously gooey croquette. Four variations on the potato theme tempt you to try them. And although I really wanted to hate the $26 burger, resistance is futile when meat is this good. The wine list ranges from an $18 carafe to a $1,500 La Tache. Dessert? Why not a soufflé? The celebrities are out in force, and it looks to me like Keith McNally’s got another hit on his hands.

Minetta Tavern 113 MacDougal St., New York City (212-475-3850)

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