I n the well-touristed heart of Prague, within walking distance of the Charles Bridge and Old Town Square, it can be a real challenge to find a decent meal. Which is why the new La Finestra in Cucina—five minutes from both of these landmarks—is such a welcome addition to the city’s restaurant roster. More importantly, this cozy Italian-style steakhouse with a Soho vibe (exposed red-brick walls, oak parquet floors, open white-tiled kitchen) serves some terrific food. It’s run by Riccardo Lucque, who opened the very popular Aromi in the Hradcany district two years ago. Chef Tomas Cerny features well-aged Piemonte beef from Italy (for brasato al Barbera) and Dutch veal (for chops and saltimbocca).
Stopping by for lunch on a rainy Saturday, I loved my maccheroni alla amatriciana, with crispy strips of guanciale and a tomato sauce punchy with red peppers. A succulent veal chop came grilled just pink and accompanied by delicious olive oil roasted potatoes and creamed spinach. Spicy panna cotta with melon “caviar” was an ideal dessert after this hearty feed, and the excellent wine list offers some great pours by the glass, including a nice Moravian Sauvignon Blanc and several fine Chiantis.
La Finestra in Cucina Platnerska 90/13, Prague (222-325-325; lafinestra.cz)
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