At L'Ambassade d'Auvergne, which focuses on the hearty cooking of that southern central region, the waiters make a show of serving aligot (whipped cheese curds, potatoes, and garlic) from copper pots. Brightly lit and noisy, L'Ardoise is a bare-bones bistro popular for its inventive cooking. At La Cagouille, Gérard Allemandou serves mussels cooked on a griddle, as well as sea bream in a buttery cockle stock. Reservations are a must at Chieng-Mai, a fine Thai place in the Latin Quarter. At Aux Charpentiers in St.-Germain, don't miss the roast duck with olives in Port sauce and the rabbit in mustard sauce. Convivial and conveniently located, Fish la Boissonnerie offers a great selection of wines and appealing dishes like cod with chickpeas. Le Pamphlet, in the Marais, serves southwestern French cooking in a comfortable, provincial setting. At Christophe Restaurant, a tiny spot in the Latin Quarter, young chef Christophe Philippe's cozy bistro is a great place for inventive contemporary French cooking, including dishes like duck breast in a spiced jus with tiny raviolis filled with duck thigh meat or grilled lamb with Moroccan spices. The waiters at the venerable Sébillon Élysées wear long white aprons and dispense classic dishes like oysters and roast lamb, which they carve tableside.
L'Ambassade d'Auvergne, 22 Rue du Grenier-St.-Lazare, 3rd, 01-42-72-31-22
L'Ardoise, 28 Rue du Mont-Thabor, 1st, 01-42-96-28-18
La Cagouille, 10 Place Constantin-Brancusi, 14th, 01-43-22-09-01
Chieng-Mai, 12 Rue Frédéric-Sauton, 5th, 01-43-25-45-45
Aux Charpentiers, 10 Rue Mabillon, 6th, 01-43-26-30-05
Fish la Boissonnerie, 69 Rue de Seine, 6th, 01-43-54-34-69
Le Pamphlet, 38 Rue Debelleyme, 3rd 01-42-72-39-24
Christophe Restaurant, 8 Rue Descartes, 5th, 01-43-26-72-49
Sébillon Élysées, 66 Rue Pierre-Charron, 8th, 01-43-59-28-15
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